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Alan Stewart seems oddly out of place in Perth’s main police station, an unassuming man in his early sixties in jeans and a baggy jumper. It only when he answers his mobile phone to discuss his latest case in urgent tones that I realize that this man’s mild manners belies a steely law enforcer. I overhear him discussing the illegal collection of hundreds of fresh water mussels from a Perthshire river before he hangs up, shaking his head.

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The islanders are in the middle of a second, green revolution. The signs were everywhere. An electric milk van picked up the luggage from the ferry to shuttle it to the old laird’s house, now being converted into the Earth Connections Sustainability Centre. Four wind turbines help deliver renewable energy to the entire island on the high ground behind.

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